Although raised in and around New York, I knew little about and had never visited City Island, so when I learned of a group tour sponsored by The Institute for Learning in Retirement, I reserved a space. Grabbing an early morning cup of coffee to jolt myself awake, I drove to the park and ride off Exit 40 where a full busload of eager participants awaited.
Our first stop (and what for me was the most interesting part of the trip) was at the Bartow-Pell Mansion and Gardens in Pelham Bay Park, which is part of the Bronx. In 1654, Thomas Pell, an English physician of great foresight, from our very own state of Connecticut, bought a vast area of land, which included much of the present-day Bronx and lower Westchester, from the Siwanoy Indians.
About 10 years later, Thomas’ heir, Sir John Pell, built a manor house on the property, which was occupied by several generations of the family before it was destroyed during the American Revolution.
In 1836, Pell family descendant Robert Bartow and his wife, Maria Lorillard, purchased part of the old manor and built a fashionable three-story Greek Revival mansion. Although Bartow had a prosperous book-selling business with an office in Manhattan and a factory in Norwich, it was probably due to Maria’s wealth (from the Lorillard tobacco family) that no expense was spared in building their home.
Upon entering the mansion, you are greeted by an elegant foyer featuring a dramatic free-standing elliptical spiral staircase, which connects the beautiful first-floor parlors with the bedrooms above. The house with its pastureland, orchards and lawns sloping down to the bay, must have been a busy place with Maria’s and Robert’s seven children and many servants.
At about that time, due to the potato famine, many servants came from Ireland. In addition to a governess (usually English) there would have been a laundress, a cook, several maids, a coachman and a stable boy. There is a stone carriage house to the rear of the mansion, the only surviving building of its type in the metropolitan area. Here we viewed the impressive coach the family would have used for special occasions. Their coachman would have been chosen for his height and good looks since he also acted as the family’s calling card, often announcing their arrival.
The carriage house was home to the stable boy who worked from 5:30 a.m. until late in the evening. He fed the horses three to five times each day with each horse consuming about 16 pounds of food. He was also responsible for grooming the horses and making up their beds of hay each night. He slept with the horses as he was considered beneath the other servants.
In addition to an everyday carriage, there would be an open sleigh for use in wintertime. Each family had a distinctive set of sleigh bells so you would know who was approaching or driving by.
Another indication of the fierce retention of “class levels” is typified by the convex mirrors used in the parlors and dining rooms. This type of mirror permitted servants to see who needed food or wine while remaining at a safe distance from the guests at the table. The double parlors were separated by sliding mahogany doors which were opened when the family entertained; often with actors who formed living pictures known as “tableau vivant.” The parlor holds portraits of family members, but usually just the face and upper body are portrayed.
Artists of that time charged extra if they painted the arms or legs. It is from this practice that we get the expression, “It cost an arm and a leg.” The mansion was sold to the City of New York in 1888 and in 1914, the International Garden Club adopted the mansion as its clubhouse. Today, the Bartow-Pell Mansion is a national historic landmark owned by the New York City department of parks.
The remainder of the day was spent on City Island which seems to survive primarily as a retreat for boat lovers since transport to the city by any other means is difficult. The main street consists of modest, well-worn buildings and places to eat seem limited to the simple fish and chips type. The business directory lists one doctor, one dentist, one pharmacy, one bank, no hospital but seven yacht clubs.
For boating enthusiasts who like a simple lifestyle with both feet rooted firmly in the past, City Island would be an ideal place to settle. Admittedly, it had little appeal for me.
- For more about the Bartow-Pell Mansion, go to www.bartowpellmansionmuseum.org
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