This grandmother has quite a resume

sat with Giuliana Maravalle in the pre-construction confusion of what will be her spacious, new version of the former New Haven Keys to the City destination and special-events restaurant combined with room for her Gelato Giuliana wholesale business.

At an age when most other grandmothers have retired, Giuliana is negotiating leases, hiring construction crews and running two successful businesses.

I was curious to learn how a Connecticut woman of Italian heritage with no formal education beyond high school, has accomplished what many MBAs would envy. Giuliana started out as a hairdresser but before long, she opened her own salon, Julie’s Hair Design in Fair Haven, and then a second salon in North Haven.

She had, however, difficulty in finding well-trained help so out of necessity, she started a small beauty school which became the Gal-Mar Academy, the largest beauty school in the state. After 30 years, she sold the school to Paul Mitchell.

Never one to sit idle for long, Giuliana thought it would be fun to have a small bottega with good espresso, some cakes and some gelato to serve a New Haven clientele. But she couldn’t find any really good gelato and having visited Italy as a teenager, she remembered what really excellent gelato should taste like.

Again, necessity became the mother of invention, and Giuliana traveled to Italy to learn how to produce the quality gelato she was after. People who came to her bottega loved the gelato and soon were asking where else they could buy it. Now available in 40 mouth-watering flavors, it is sold wholesale to Whole Foods and many other specialty food stores in the Northeast. (For a list of stores and restaurants carrying her gelato, go to www.gelatogiuliana.com).

True gelato, Giuliana explains enthusiastically, must be 15 percent or less air, so a smaller amount is satisfying and the flavors are very intense. Some ice creams contain as much as 90 percent air and many artificial additives.

Gelato Giuliana uses fresh ingredients and the fruit-based flavors are only 30-40 calories in a 4-ounce serving. I didn’t want to know how many calories are in her wonderful amaretto or coconut, creme brulee, hazelnut or tiramisu flavors; fortunately, even a small dish is very satisfying.

Guilana’s new destination restaurant, Keys to the City at Terminal 110 at Long Wharf in New Haven, will have a soft opening Thursday. They’ll be open from 5 p.m. to midnight, Thursdays through Saturdays only. Easily accessible from Long Wharf Theatre and downtown, it will feature casual fare and unique performances by dueling pianos. Keys to the City may be booked for parties and special events as well. Call 203-772-0607 for reservations.

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